Skukuza Rest Camp, Kruger National Park

The administrative headquarters of the park and Kruger’s largest rest camp, Skukuza positively buzzes with activity. Situated on the southern bank of the perennial Sabie River, in one of the best game-viewing areas of the park, it is popular year-round. The name Skukuza originates from Stevenson-Hamilton’s Shangaan nickname, meaning ‘turns everything upside down’ or ‘sweeps clean’ after his efforts to turn the then Sabie Reserve, the forerunner of the Kruger National Park, into a viable conservation area.

Accommodation at Skukuza

Chalets
The best units are those downriver from the shop and restaurant complex.The simplest of the chalets are two and three-bed bungalows (117 units), which make use of communal kitchen facilities. The 61 two- and three-bed bungalows have basic kitchen facilities, while there are 15 two-person, luxury, riverside bungalows with magnificent views over the Sabie River. These are somewhat of a departure from traditional SANParks bungalows and have large plate-glass windows, fancy outside cooking and braai areas, double beds and satellite TV. In addition Skukuza boasts four-, six-, seven- and nine-bed guest cottages, all of which have a fully equipped kitchenette. Guesthouses for larger groups include Moni, Nyathi and Waterkant, which sleep eight each, and Absa, which sleeps 12 (four are accommodated in the lounge on sleeper couches).

Safari tents
Two- and four-bed unitsm are available, but all make use of communal kitchens and bathroom facilities. Each unit is equipped with a small fridge/freezer.

Camping and caravanning
The large, 80-site camping area (some of the sites are numbered) is spread over a wide area to the east of the rest camp. There are braai facilities near most sites and electric boxes are well appointed throughout, although you will need a caravanning adapter for regular three-pin wall plugs. Communal kitchens with washing sinks, two-plate electric stoves and instant boiling water dispensers and a laundromat are strategically placed throughout

Wildlife at Skukuza

The camp
Elephant, hippo, crocodile, giraffe, impala, waterbuck and other species can be seen coming down to the Sabie River to drink. A large number of bats usually roost under the thatched roof outside the takeaway restaurant. At night, bushbabies are sometimes seen leaping from tree to tree. Look out for the pair of whitetailed mongoose that live near the Papenfus Tower.

The surroundings
This is one of the best game-viewing areas in the park. Wild dog are often seen along the surrounding roads early in the morning. Hyena are also very common around Skukuza and this is one of the best areas in the park to view these interesting and often-maligned predators. The entire river drainage area is crowded with life, and whether you drive around or find a good vantage point over the river − in which case look out for giant water monitors – you are likely to be richly rewarded.

The Big Five
Lion are seen frequently in the area, while leopard are seen every day (according to the sightings board) along the densely vegetated river margins. Elephant are abundant in the Sabie River and large buffalo herds visit relatively often. Rhino can be slightly trickier to find but do occur in the area.

Birds
A large number of bird species are attracted to the majestic trees that shade the camp – in particular, look out for the African green pigeon, brownheaded parrot and paradise, black, dusky, spotted, grey tit (fan-tailed) and pallid flycatcher. In summer, massive nesting colonies of lesser-masked and village (spotted-backed) weavers congregate near the restaurant. Bat hawk and Eurasian hobby are often seen over the river, while African finfoot and halfcollared kingfishers are not uncommon. Look for these birds at the low-level bridge over the Sabie. The river walk can be very productive, with sightings of collared sunbird, red-backed and bronze mannikin, red-faced cisticola, spectacled weaver, purple-crested turaco, orange-breasted, grey-headed as well as gorgeous bushshrikes. It is worth visiting the nearby hide at Lake Panic, which offers fantastic viewing of various water birds including black-winged stilts, kingfishers and herons – not to mention crocodiles and terrapins – at close quarters.

Don’t miss!

The Stevenson-Hamilton Memorial Library and Museum, with its impressive collection of historical accounts and interesting displays, is not to be missed. On display is the skin of the lion killed by Harry Wolhuter, and the sheath knife that delivered the death blow. Drop in on the Selati Grillhouse (an old restored train). There is a 9-hole golf course (013-735-5543), indigenous plant nursery, wetland boardwalk, and a day visitor’s centre including a swimming pool and braai lapa.

Activities at Skukuza

Guided early-morning, mid-morning, sunset and night drives are offered in a 10- or 23-seat vehicle – the larger ones being less expensive. These are all booked at reception. Four-hour morning bushwalks and three-hour ‘sunset’ bushwalks, with a maximum of eight people, can also be booked here. Bush braais including a three-hour drive and a cash bar on site are booked at the restaurant or at reception. Wildlife documentaries are shown, weather permitting, in the open-air auditorium.

Best drives at Skukuza

The problem with Skukuza is often not finding animals but avoiding the hordes of other visitors when you do. All the main roads in the vicinity are busy and you are unlikely to have many sightings to yourself, unless you wait for the ‘hordes’ to return to camp for breakfast; from 08h00 to 10h00 all but the most popular roads will be quiet. On the positive side, the frequency of cars has habituated many animals so good sightings are often possible. There are also a number of less busy routes around the camp and, on these, you often encounter animals without too many people.

Doispane Loop
Heading west towards the Paul Kruger Gate on the S42 (Kruger Gate Road), pass the intersection with the S1 and continue on the H11 almost to the gate, taking the left turn onto the S3 river road. This hugs the banks of the Sabie River and passes through thick riverine vegetation. Exciting sightings beckon on the route and lion, leopard, elephant, hippos, bushbuck, white rhino, waterbuck and giraffe are common. Wild dog are also regularly spotted in the early morning. Keep to the S3 until it intersects with the S1 near the Phabeni Gate. At this point, it is worth heading west towards the gate for a short distance to see the Albasini Ruins, where the trader João Albasini had his house and trading store in the mid-1800s. There are toilets and a small info centre at the site. Then retrace your steps and continue east along the S1, known as the Doispane Road, after the legendary ranger Doispane Mongwe.

It is well worth visiting the Nyamundwa Dam, where impala, wildebeest, kudu and waterbuck often congregate to drink. Water birds such as black crake, moorhen, African spoonbill and hamerkop are also always present, as are hippo, terrapin and crocodile. Continue on the S1 to the S65, turning off to the Nwaswitshaka Water Hole. The road is very close to the water here, allowing fantastic views of game drinking. A family of ground hornbills patrols this area so keep an eye open for these endangered birds. General game such as zebra, impala, kudu and giraffe occur along the whole route and there is also a good chance of seeing lion.

Skukuza-Lower Sabie Road
The H4-1, which heads east from Skukuza, is probably the busiest road in the park, carrying traffic from two large camps and a large number of day-trippers. However, its popularity is not without good reason and fantastic sightings are almost guaranteed. Elephant are very common along the entire course of the Sabie River, while a huge number of impala mill about near the road. Be sure to take the turn-offs from the H4-1, both towards and away from the river, as there are often sightings along these. Nearly all the pools in the river contain hippos, and large crocs sun themselves along the bank. Baboons and monkeys are also common along this road and you can spend hours watching their antics. In the evenings, keep a lookout for leopard, regularly seen by visitors returning to Skukuza at last light.

Midway between Skukuza and Lower Sabie is Nkuhlu Picnic Site, which boasts gas cookers for hire, toilets, chairs and tables, a takeaway and small shop selling a relatively wide range of essentials. You can turn backhere or continue on to Lower Sabie as the entire route provides fantastic viewing. The Nkhulu Picnic Site is the epicentre of the ‘leopard triangle’. Also heavy elephant traffic from the river crosses the road into the dense bush. Check all the short detour loops along the river for game sightings.

Tshokwane Road
This is another popular route, accessed either by heading along the H4-1 a short distance and crossing the Sabie River on the H12, or by following the H1-2 from Skukuza, crossing the Sabie and Sand rivers. Whichever option you choose, keep a lookout from the low-level bridges as you cross the rivers as great views of hippo, giant water monitors, crocodile and water birds, like darter, reed and white-breasted cormorant, little bittern, green-backed, goliath and squacco heron are possible. Where the H1-2 crosses the Sand River is a hotspot for both lion and leopard. The H1-2 is also good for elephant and large herds are often seen grazing on the thornveld next to the road. Closer to the Sand River, large troops of baboon and vervet monkey frequent the jackalberries, sycamore figs and other majestic trees that line the banks of the Sand River. You can make this a short loop and return along the H12 to the H4-1 and home, but if you have the time, head north to Tshokwane.

The excellent H1-2, with its numerous dams and water holes, attracts a range of wildlife, and lion, leopard, buffalo and elephant sightings are common. Six kilometres north of the intersection with the H12 you have an option to turn left onto the S84, which takes you past the Mantimahle Dam, while if you stick with the tar road you pass Olifants Water Hole. Both the dam and the water hole offer great opportunities, although the S86 dirt road loop is a little less busy. Old-timers consider these the two best game-viewing dams in Kruger.After you rejoin the H1-2, you pass the Kruger Memorial Tablets where you can stop, alight and walk up to the brass plaques for a close look. It’s a good excuse to stretch your legs, but be aware as there is always the chance of spotting animals in the vicinity. Continuing along, it’s worth visiting Leeupan water hole and Silolweni dam before reaching the Tshokwane Picnic Site, which includes a pub with draught beer on tap and boerewors rolls. The birds are particularly tame at Tshokwane so take your binoculars and bird books along, as fantastic sightings of hornbills, glossy starlings and a range of other species are possible.

Malelane-Skukuza Road
Head south on the H1-1, the main road leading south to Malelane. A short distance along the S114, a dirt road branches off and you can take either road. If you stick with the tar, you avoid the dust and you pass the De Laporte Water Hole and impressive Mathekenyane View Point, from where you half believe you can see right across the park and into Mozambique.

Continuing along the H1-1, turn left on to the S112 and then left again on to the S22 to the Stevenson-Hamilton Memorial Tablets at Shirimantanga Koppie (450m). This special burial place is a fitting site for the most important figure in the park’s history. Two small plaques commemorating the Stevenson-Hamiltons (his wife is buried here too) are attached to the huge granite boulder, guarded by lizards and baboons and surrounded by all he fought so hard to protect.

This is an extract from the Kruger Park Guide by Cameron Ewart-Smith and Sunbird Publishers. This is an extract from the Kruger guide. Want you own copy of the pocket guide? Buy the Getaway Guide to Kruger National Park here.